Castello Tricerchi sits on the northern slope of Montalcino, in the coolest part of the whole denomination. The name suggests something grand, and the castle is real, but Tommaso is not the formal type it implies. He gave up a career as a pharmacist in Rome and moved here in 2013 to run the winery with his uncle. Marko liked him immediately, and the first thing he thought was: "He’s one of us."

The wines follow the same logic as the man. These are approachable Brunellos, meant as a compliment rather than a knock, proof that Brunello di Montalcino does not have to come with a steep price and a special occasion attached every time.